Make It Work


SRAM Shifter to Dropper Post Remote Conversion

DK - 11/13/2015

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We love dropper posts. The trail riders in the bunch love 'em for their practical use, the mechanics in the bunch love exploring the way the different models work. Our engineer guy Aaron (AKA Dutch-E) is both. The remotes for dropper posts, however, leave much to be desired in most cases: awkward placement, funky actuation--not terribly human in design. For that reason, we really like the Specialized SLR Lever for their Command Post as it mates to our favorite SRAM brakes via the MatchMaker OR to Shimano brakes via our own MisMatch Adapter. That doesn't help us with other dropper post models, so Dutch-E made his own. This is some next-level hacking, so if you care deeply about the condition of your front shifter, look no further. 

Gotta pop the screws out of the bottom of your second-favorite SRAM left-hand shifter. 


Take a picture will you? It's impossible to remember how this stuff all fits back together. This took something like eight attempts to reassemble. The spring comes out so you can access the rest of the internals.


The arrows here are identifying the "indexing finger." Theres one of these on 2x shifters, two on 3x systems. They all gotta go. This is because you need the cable to pull and release on each lever push. 


Now we've got to get the indexing plate out of there so we can grind off that finger. 5mm hex wrench and S2 square drive bit. 


Now we've got that little sonofagun out of there, we file off the finger. Use a bench grinder if you're feeling lucky. 


There's a bunch more steps if you click here.


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Bike Nerd Pen Holder

DK - 03/14/2014


From Certified Problem Solver El Gato comes this re-use for your old hub shells & disc rotors...

1. Find an old hub with 6-bolt or center lock disc mount, (ideally with a larger hub shell)
2. Locate a used rotor; pick your size
3. Use the proper hardware to mount rotor to hub. Bend outer edge of rotor downward, to "lift" the center of the rotor upward, making room for bolt heads.  Avoids wobble.  Takes a little time but works out well.
4. Clean it up, make it shiny
5. Insert a "plug" at the bottom (I used foam) to stop the pens from falling through
6. Place pens inside, and enjoy the envy of your peers


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Fat Tire Repair

DK - 12/23/2013


Fat tires are very 'spensive. Certified Problem Solver "El Gato"sends in this report from the field: 

Ultra-mean tire gash. Does this mean $100+ dollars down the drain? 

Nah. We got this. 

A view from the inside

Cut yerself an appropriately sized bit of spare inner tube


Glue: spread it on

Patch it. 

Ensure adhesion. 

At last report, this solution has held up for 2 months of winter riding so far. Nice work Gato!

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Fender Flutes Now In Stock

DK - 10/24/2013


There's lots of suspension-corrected forks out there, which is great, 'cause it makes a mountain bicycle versatile. There's one stinker of a problem, however: fender mounting. The extra fork clearance causes fork crown mounted front fenders to sit way up above the tire, rendering them less effective than they should be, and really unattractive (one always desires a consistent radius, doesn't one?).



There are two common hacks we've used to address this problem: cutting a bit of a fender stay to essentially extend the fender's mounting bracket, OR using a disc brake adapter to provide a secondary mounting point. Neither of these solutions is particularly simple or attractive, so we manufactured this thing and decided to call it the Fender Flute.

The Fender Flute, on Mark's Desk


It's a 100mm long piece of black anodized alloy with M6 holes tapped at 10mm intervals. You attach the fender tab to its backside: 

Then find the sweet spot and attach it to the fork crown via corresponding threaded hole:

The fender tab has adjustability for fine tuning, and there you've got yourself a more effective fender with a much nicer-looking radius: 

Nice (but be sure to cut those fender struts). 

Now available from our big momma QBP. Talk to your local bicycle retailer.  

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Fork Crown Light Mount from Repurposed Hardware

DK - 07/19/2013

The recent random obsession in my basement has been disc brake adapters. I've got about a dozen of these I've accumulated over the years and no braksets that need these particular varieties, so I've been searching for re-uses. They do have some features that piqued my interest: they're threaded for M6 bolts (pretty common to find in the junk drawer), and the threads are perpendicular to each other, rare for bike-related hardware. I used one as an extension/mount for a front rack, and last week found another sweet repurpose: 

There's the disc brake adapter, one of our QR nut light mounts, and a double-ended stud (I'll explain later). 


The vice was occupado, so I screwed the adapter into the bench to cut one end off. 


It's pretty quick to get through the alloy with a hacksaw. Then I tried to get fancy with the bench grinder. I used a black Sharpie to cover up the silver...


The disc brake adapter threads right onto most fender mounting bolts, since they're threaded for M6 nuts. Still a fair amount of clearance for the brake arms.


The double-ended stud. I've encountered a handful of these in my day, and they've always come in handy. I decided to get some made for Problem Solvers, thinking that they might be something our kinfolk may be interested in. This particular stud is M5 threaded on one side and M6 threaded on the other.


The M6 side goes into the modified disc brake adapter...


The M5 side goes into our QR nut light mount, much like this previous post...


Then the headlight attaches to the light mount. Pretty slick, huh? It would work just as easily on a rear rack with a taillight. I have to be a little careful because the heavy end of the light may cause the mount to twist loose, but it's been great through a couple night rides so far. The real question I have is what other potential uses there might be for these double-ended studs? It would seem there are myriad possibilities...





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