QR Nut Light Mount Hack from Edelstone

Todays post comes from Edelstone, Certified Problem Solver and all-around thoughtful guy. Standard disclaimers apply.
"Nowadays there are a lot of great ways to mount a headlight on your bike. Recently I’ve been trying out one of these nifty QR Nut Light Mounts from Problem Solvers:

This accessory replaces the nutted side of a standard quick release skewer, thus placing the light beam at a significantly lower position than handlebar mounting allows. There are two primary advantages to the axle-level mounting position: 1) It frees up space on your handlebar for aesthetic or practical reasons, and 2) a lower beam resultsin a longer section of road lit up in front of you. This supports safer reaction times to approaching obstacles, especially at higher speeds. If you ride at an average speed of 12 mph - like I do - this might not be a huge benefit for you.
Conversely, there is a small disadvantage to axle-level mounting: high-powered light beams at this height tend to cast long shadows on benign road debris. This is not a significant problem, but because of this I tend to advocate mounting headlights midway between the handlebar and the wheel axle whenever possible. My first recommendation is always the fork crown (the section of the fork where the two fork blades meet). I consider this the sweet spot for beam pattern height, but it also has the added advantage of allowing for completely centered light mounting. Unfortunately most battery powered lights aren’t designed to mount here, and there are a slew of other reasons why mounting at the fork crown is impractical, or impossible. For example, my current bike project:

Although my Supernova E3 dynamo headlight came with a bracket specifically for fork crown mounting, my front rack is clearly going to interfere with that possibility. And in this case, handlebar mounting isn’t even a practical solution because items stacked up on the rack could obscure the beam. So what other fork-mounting options are there? If your fork is drilled for a front rack there are some good DIY solutions for creating a light mount at mid-fork. [Editor's note: If your bike has cantilever brake studs, Brake Stud Light Mounts might suit this purpose for you]. If these are not viable options for you, here is a solution that will work. I already had the Problem Solvers QR Nut Light Mount mentioned above, so that will be the first prerequisite. And if you’re like me, you probably have a few handlebar mounting brackets laying around, like this one:

This is a pretty ubiquitous Cat Eye Flextight bracket included with most of their lights these days, but I’m sure other mounts could be used as well. First, remove the little swivel section on top of the light mount with a phillips screwdriver; you won’t need it. Next, there is a little nut wedged behind the rubber shim on the inside of the mount. Slide that out.

This nut is threaded for an M4 bolt. For this project it needs to be tapped out to an M5. I don’t own a set of taps, so I had this done at the local hardware store where I picked up the last ingredient: a continuously threaded M5 x 0.8 bolt. If you don’t own a saw and a file, be sure to get this bolt cut down to about an inch while you’re at the hardware store. This is all the hardware you will need:

Reinstall the nut and hand-thread the bolt into the clamp until it bottoms out (you may need to ream out the plastic a bit where the bolt enters the clamp).

Now simply thread on the Problem Solvers QR Nut Mount until it stops.

Install the mounting bracket on the fork blade the same way you would on a handlebar and then mount your light. Here’s mine:

Be sure to comment below if you have any suggestions or alternative solutions. And have a good (night) ride!
- Edelstone



Comments
Patrick Finley | 10/25/2012
Very nice! I’ve found that the drive side is the better spot for mounting when a side must be chosen; right-turning drivers are always in the biggest hurry and the only ones I’ve had close calls/impacts with.
Michael Edelstone | 10/25/2012
That’s an interesting point. I suppose I’ve always installed on the non-drive side because most of the traffic is over there on the left. I’ll try the right side on my next project. Thanks!
David Lewis | 10/26/2012
I think some serious work needs to be done standardizing a centered light mount for situations like this, but it would require some cooperation with makers of racks.
The Racktime Topit rack, for example, makes an accommodation for headlights, but only works with a few examples, nearly all of which require further modification of the provided mount. And this rack has serious potential for platforms, if only someone would provide one that actually fit its Snapit insert. Nobody does, and most of examples I’ve seen involve zip ties.
I think the answer lies with the fender/mudguard. The Ixon IQ light uses a similar mount to the Planet Bike lights, and I think they may be compatible; this mount could be grafted onto a slightly stiffened front portion of a mudguard, and then the whole thing would fit under a flatbed rack. Problem solved.
Michael Edelstone | 10/26/2012
I’d be interested to see something like that. My only concern: I like having my flatbed as close to the top of the wheel as possible for a more stable load. For example, it wouldn’t work as-is with my current setup because the rack clearance is low and the front SKS fender tends to end a bit abruptly. This would be less of a concern with a higher flatbed and perhaps a Honjo or other steel fender.
Michael Edelstone | 10/26/2012
Here’s an elegant example from Littleford Bicycles about what you’re talking about.
http://www.littlefordbicycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/nahbs-studio-front.jpg
Patrick Finley | 10/26/2012
http://cdn2.media.cyclingnews.futurecdn.net/2010/03/04/1/banjo_tourer_front_light_600.jpg
This, to me, is the ideal solution…but fairly custom and not QR
Michael Edelstone | 10/26/2012
That’s a pretty nice setup. I like the detail with the twine. I suppose issues with lighting aren’t much different than other bicycle parts. There comes a point where you just have to say, yeah that’s gotta be a custom deal or require some modification. The good news is that there are more lighting options (finally) in the U.S. than ever before. Utilitarian cycling might actually be catching on, albeit slowly.
David Lewis | 10/26/2012
I like the two examples, and it shows that folks are working on it.
Until recently I lived in Germany. I use an Ortlieb waterproof handlebar bag, and it prevents handlebar light mounting, which led me to searching for solutions, which led me to discovering the German standard (actually, the law!) with dynolights mounted at the fork crown. This standard clashes with front racks, and it looks like this simple fact alone has halted innovation in this particular field, at least in Germany. Leave it to the Americans!
When I came home to the States, I ordered the then-new Surly Disc Trucker frame to build up, and I was unpleasantly surprised to find the cast fork crown had virtually zero clearance for the standard B&M crown mount. I had to stack it with four washers to clear the headset, and this in turn required a longer M6 bolt to secure it and the fender tab in the back. I have not found a single hardware store that carries so long a metric bolt in stainless steel. It’s like they don’t exist! And a Sheldon Fender Nut would not fit because Surly did not drill the hole wide enough for recessed brake nuts. It’s almost a conspiracy!
Anyway, that’s what got me thinking of using a stiffened fender instead, pretty much exactly what #Patrick Finley posted. Actually, exactly what #Patrick Finley posted, only not necessarily in bamboo.
Michael Edelstone | 10/26/2012
I’m surprised to learn that the clearance on the Surly fork crown wasn’t adequate. Maybe we’ll see Problem Solvers address the fender light mount potential in the near future!
Michelle M Ruiz | 10/31/2012
Excellent post. You must continue to offer excellent resources and content like you have been offering. I will most likely stop by again in the future.
Arvind | 11/03/2012
David Lewis, wouldn’t something like this fix your problem? http://problemsolversbike.com/products/brake_nuts
I have the same issue (not enough clearance to clear the headset) on my Kona Kapu and was looking for some washers and one of the brake nuts.